Information for visitors to Thailand
Bangkok is sprawling, chaotic and exhausting: to do it justice and to keep your sanity, you need time, boundless patience and a bus map. The place to start is Ratanakosin, the royal island on the east bank of the Chao Phraya and location of the Grand Palace, Wat Po and the National Museum. The other main areas of interest are Chinatown for its markets, Thonburi for its traditional canalside life and boat rides; and several impressive historical residences in downtown Bangkok, including Jim Thompson's House and Suan Pakkad. If you're here at a weekend, you shouldn't miss the enormous Chatuchak Weekend Market.
North and west of the capital, the unwieldy urban mass of Greater Bangkok peters out into the vast, well-watered central plains, a region that for centuries has grown the bulk of the nation's food and been a tantalizing temptation for neighbouring power-mongers. The riverside town of Kanchanaburi has long attracted visitors to the notorious Bridge over the River Kwai and is now well established as a budget-travellers' hangout. Few tourists venture further west except to travel on the Death Railway, but the tiny hilltop town of Sangkhlaburi is worth continuing for. On the plains north of Bangkok, the historic heartland of the country, the major sites are the ruined ancient cities of Ayutthaya, Lopburi and Sukhothai. Mae Sot makes a therapeutic change from ancient history and is the departure point for the rivers and waterfalls of Umpang, a remote border region that's becoming increasingly popular for trekking and rafting.
As Thailand drops down to meet Malaysia, the cultures of the two countries begin to merge. Many inhabitants of the deep south are ethnically more akin to the Malaysians: most of the 1,500,000 followers of Islam here speak Yawi, an old Malay dialect, and many yearn for secession from Thailand. There are eight border crossings to Malaysia down here, with the most efficient transport connections to Malaysia starting at the ugly, modern city of Hat Yai. The nearby old town of Songkhla is a more sympathetic spot for sightseeing, but if you're after coastal attractions, either take a boat trip through the Thale Noi Waterbird Park, or head for the rarely visited beaches of the Trang coast and the spectacular Ko Tarutao islands
Thailand's east coast is a five-hundred-kilometre string of predominantly dull, grey beaches blotched with expensive, over-packaged family resorts, the largest and most notorious of which is Pattaya. Offshore, however, it's a different story: the tiny island of Ko Samet attracts backpackers and Bangkokians to its pretty white-sand beaches, while travellers with more time on their hands head east to Ko Chang, a large forested island close to the Cambodian border. It is now legal to cross over the border near here.
Beyond the northern plains, the climate becomes more temperate, nurturing the fertile land which gave the old kingdom of the north the name of Lanna, "the land of a million rice fields". Until the beginning of the last century, Lanna was a largely independent region, with its own styles of art and architecture. Its capital, the cool, pleasant city of Chiang Mai, is now a major travellers' centre and the most popular base from which to organize treks to nearby hilltribe villages. Another great way of exploring the scenic countryside up here is to rent a motorbike and make the six hundred-kilometre loop over the forested western mountains into Mae Hong Son and back. Heading north from Chiang Mai brings you to the increasingly upmarket town of Chiang Rai, and then on to the Burmese border settlements of Mae Sai and Sop Ruak - better known as the apex of the "Golden Triangle". You can't enter Burma here for longer than a day-trip, but Chiang Khong, on the Mekong River, is an important crossing point to Laos, with same-day but expensive visas available.
Bordered by Laos and Cambodia on three sides, the tableland of northeast Thailand, known as Isaan, is the least-visited region of the kingdom and the poorest, but also its most traditional. Most northeasterners speak a dialect that's more comprehensible to residents of Vientiane than Bangkok, and Isaan's historic allegiances have tied it more closely to Laos and Cambodia than to Thailand. Between the eleventh and thirteenth centuries, the all-powerful Khmers covered the northeast in magnificent stone temple complexes, which can still be admired at Phimai and Phanom Rung. The mighty Mekong River forms 750km of the border between Isaan and Laos, and there are five points along it where foreigners are allowed to cross the border. The river makes a popular backpackers' trail, not least because of its laid-back waterfront guesthouses in Chiang Khan, Sri Chiang Mai and Nong Khai. Inland scenery is rewarding too, with good hiking trails at the national parks of Khao Yai and Phu Kradung.
The landscape along the Andaman coast is lushly tropical and spiked with dramatic limestone crags, best appreciated by staying in the lovely Khao Sok National Park or taking a boat trip around the bizarre Ao Phang Nga Bay. Most people, however, come here for the beaches and the coral reefs: Phuket is Thailand's largest island and the best place to learn to dive, but it's package-tour-oriented, so most backpackers head straight for the beaches off Krabi, and the islands of Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta. Unlike the Gulf coast, the Andaman coast is hit by the southwest monsoon from May to October, when the rain and high seas render some of the outer islands inaccessible and litter many beaches with debris; prices drop significantly during this period however.
Southern Thailand's Gulf coast is famous chiefly for its three fine islands of the Samui archipelago: the large and increasingly upmarket Ko Samui, the laid-back Ko Pha Ngan, site of monthly full-moon parties, and the tiny Ko Tao, which is encircled by some of Thailand's best dive sites. Other attractions seem minor by comparison, but the typically Thai seaside resort of Hua Hin has a certain charm, and the grand old temples in Nakhon Si Thammarat are worth a detour.
Bangkok Listings
Airlines: Aeroflot, Regent House, 183 Th Rajdamri (tel 02/251 0617-18); Air France, Unit 2002, 34 Vorwat Building, 849 Th Silom (tel 02/635 1186-7); Air India, 12th Floor, One Pacific Place, 140 Th Sukhumvit (tel 02/235 0557); Bangkok Airways, Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre, Thanon Ratchadaphisek (tel 02/229 3456); Biman Bangladesh Airlines, Chongkolnee Building, 56 Th Suriwong (tel 02/235 7643-4); British Airways, 14th Floor, Abdullrahim Place, opposite Lumphini Park, 990 Th Rama IV (tel 02/636 1747); Canadian Airlines, Maneeya Centre, 518/5 Th Ploenchit (tel 02/251 4521); Cathay Pacific, Ploenchit Tower, 898 Th Ploenchit (tel 02/263 0606); China Airlines, Peninsula Plaza, 153 Th Rajdamri (tel 02/253 4242-3); Finnair, 6th Floor, Vorawat Building, 849 Th Silom (tel 02/635 1234); Garuda, 27th Floor, Lumphini Tower, 1168/77 Th Rama IV (tel 02/285 6470-3); Gulf Air, Maneeya Building, 518/5 Th Ploenchit (tel 02/254 7931-4); Kampuchea Airlines, c/o Orient Thai Airlines, 17th Floor, Jewellery Centre, 138/70 Th Nares (tel 02/267 3210-2); KLM, 19th Floor, Thai Wah Tower 2, 21/133 Th Sathorn Thai (tel 02/679 1100 extn 11); Lao Aviation, Silom Plaza, Th Silom (tel 02/236 9822-3); Lauda Air, Wall Street Tower, 33/37 Th Suriwong (tel 02/267 0873-9); Lufthansa, 18th Floor, Q-House, Soi 21, Th Sukhumvit (tel 02/264 2400); Malaysia Airlines, Ploenchit Tower, 898 Th Ploenchit (tel 02/263 0565-71); Myanmar Airlines, 23rd Floor, Jewelry Trade Center Building, Unit H1, 919/298 Th Silom (tel 02/630 0338); Philippine Airlines, Chongkolnee Building, 56 Th Suriwong (tel 02/233 2350-2); Qantas Airways, 14th Floor, Abdullrahim Place, opposite Lumphini Park, 990 Th Rama 1V (tel 02/636 1747); Royal Air Cambodge, 17th Floor, Two Pacific Place Building, Room 1706, 142 Th Sukhumvit (tel 02/653 2261-6); Royal Nepal, 9th Floor, Phrayathai Plaza Building, 128 Th Phrayathai (tel 02/216 5691-5); Singapore Airlines Silom Centre, 2 Th Silom (tel 02/236 0440); Thai International, 6th Floor, Th Lan Luang (tel 02/280 0060); United Airlines, 14th floor, tower 3, Sindhorn Building, 130-132 Th Witthayu (Wireless) (tel 02/253 0558); Vietnam Airlines, 7th Floor, Ploenchit Center Building, Sukhumvit Soi 2 (tel 02/656 9056-8).
American Express: c/o Sea Tours, 128/88-92, 8th Floor, Phrayathai Plaza, 128 Th Phyathai, Bangkok 10400 (tel 02/216 5759). Amex credit card- and travellers' cheque-holders can use the office (Mon-Fri 8.30am-5.30pm, Sat 8.30am-noon) as a poste restante; mail and faxes are only held for sixty days. They will also receive faxes for Amex customers on 02/216 5757. To report lost cards or cheques call 02/273 0044 (cards, office hours), 02/273 5296 (travellers' cheques, office hours), or 02/273 0022 (after hours).
Embassies and consulates: Australia, 37 Th Sathorn Thai (tel 02/287 2680); Brunei, 154 Soi Ekamai, Th Sukhumvit (tel 02/515766); Burma, 132 Th Sathorn Nua (tel 02/233 2237); Cambodia, 185 Th Ratchadamri, Lumphini (tel 02/254 6630 & 253 9851); Canada, 15th Floor, Abdulrahim Building, 990 Th Rama 4 (tel 02/636 0560); China, 57/2 Th Rajdapisek (tel 02/245 7033); UK, 1031 Th Witthayu (Wireless) (tel 02/253 0191-9); India, 46 Soi 23, Th Sukhumvit (tel 02/258 0300-6); Indonesia, 600-602 Th Phetchaburi (tel 02/252 3135-40); Ireland, United Flour Mill Building, 205 Th Rajawong (tel 02/223 0876); Laos, 502 Ramkhamhaeng Soi 39 (tel 02/539 6667-8); Malaysia, 3-35 Th South Sathorn (tel 02/679 2190-9); Nepal, 189 Soi 71, Th Sukhumvit (tel 02/391 7240); Netherlands, 106 Th Witthayu (Wireless) (tel 02/254 7701-5); New Zealand, 93 Th Witthayu (Wireless) (tel 02/254 2530); Philippines, Soi 30/1, 760 Th Sukhumvit, (tel 02/259 0139-40); Singapore, 129 Th Sathorn Thai (tel 02/286 2111); US, 120-122 Th Witthayu (Wireless) (tel 02/205 4000); Vietnam, 83/1 Th Witthayu (Wireless) (tel 02/251 5835-8).
Emergencies: For all emergencies, call the tourist police on 1699.
Hospitals and clinics: Travellers' Medical and Vaccination Centre, 8th Floor, Alma Link Building, 25 Soi Chitlom, Th Ploenchit (tel 02/655 1024-5); Bangkok Adventist Hospital, 430 Th Phitsanulok (tel 02/281 1422); Bangkok Christian Hospital, 124 Th Silom (tel 02/233 6981); Bangkok Nursing Home, 9 Th Convent (tel 02/233 2610-9); Clinic Banglamphu, 187 Th Chakrabongse (tel 02/282 7479).
Immigration Office: About 1km down Soi Suan Plu, off Th Sathorn Thai (Mon-Fri 8am-noon & 1-4pm; tel 02/287 3101-10). Visa extension takes about an hour.
Internet access: The most efficient cybercafés in Bangkok include: Bangkok Internet Café at the western end of Th Khao San, Banglamphu (24 hr); Hello Internet Café at 63 Th Khao San, Banglamphu (daily 10am-2am); Cybercafé on the 2nd floor of the Ploenchit Center, Soi 2, Th Sukhumvit (daily 10am-9.30pm); Cyberia, cnr of Soi 24, Th Sukhumvit (Sun-Wed 10.30am-11pm, Thurs-Sat 10.30am-midnight).
Pharmacies: English-speaking staff at Boots the Chemist, on the corner of Soi 33, Th Sukhumvit (tel 02/252 8056), and at most other pharmacies in the capital.
Police: There's a Tourist Assistance Centre (TAC) in the TAT headquarters (tel 02/281 5051). In an emergency contact the English-speaking tourist police (tel 1699).
Post office: The GPO is at 1160 Th Charoen Krung (aka New Road), a few hundred metres left of the exit for Wat Muang Kae express-boat stop. Poste restante can be collected Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat, Sun & hols 8am-1pm; letters are kept for three months. The parcel packing service at the GPO operates Mon-Fri 8am-4.30pm, Sat 9am-noon. If staying on or near Th Khao San in Banglamphu, it's more convenient to use the poste restante service at the post office on Soi Sibsam Hang, opposite Wat Bowoniwes (Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm, Sat 9am-noon). Letters should be addressed c/o poste restante, Banglamphubon PO, Bangkok 10203 and are kept for two months. You can also send and receive faxes there on tel 02/281 1579. If staying on Th Sukhumvit, poste restante can be sent to the Th Sukhumvit post office between sois 2 and 4, c/o Nana PO, Th Sukhumvit, Bangkok 10112.
Telephones services: The least expensive places to make international calls are the public telephone offices in or near post offices . The largest and most convenient of these is in the compound of the GPO on Charoen Krung (aka New Road), which is open 24hr and also offers a fax service and a free collect-call service. The post offices at Hualamphong Station, on Sukhumvit and on Soi Sibsam Hang in Banglamphu also have international telephone offices attached, but these close at 8pm. Special international yellow cardphones can be found in tourist areas (cards cost from B300 and are available from tourist-oriented shops).
Travel agents: Recommended travel agents include the large Diethelm Travel, in Kian Gwan Building II, 140/1 Th Witthayu (Wireless) (tel 02/255 9150), which is particularly good on travel to Indochina; and the international STA Travel, 14th Floor, Wall Street Tower, 33 Th Suriwong (tel 02/236 0262). Always check that the travel agent belongs to the Association of Thai Travel Agents (ATTA), and be wary of fly-by-night operators on Th Khao San. Many travel agents can also arrange visas for neighbouring countries.